While I agree that there is no such thing as "bruising" Gin, how cold a liquid
is DOES have an effect on its flavor. This is especially true with Gin and
Vermouth since they're both aromatic. Each of those herbs is filled with
complex oils and chemicals, each of which have characteristics that show
themselves more and less at different temperatures.
Generally speaking, as you go farther down in temperature, nuances and flavors
of the gin and vermouth become less pronounced. On the flipside, if you go up
in temperature more of the flavors come out, including the less desirable
ones. This is all because as chemicals hit higher temperatures they become
more reactive and their particles move through the air faster. Conversely at
lower temperatures chemicals are less reactive, move slower, and disperse less.
Your nose and tastebuds are all about identifying and reacting with chemicals
to form a flavor profile. Less reactive = less taste. Now all of this is very
subtle in many instances, but it is certanly a very real factor.
The argument for stirring gin and vermouth is that a light stir will only give
the liquids a slight chill thus not loosing much of their respective
character. Shaking on the other hand often takes the temperature lower and
flavors become less pronounced. As always, everyone's method of shaking is
different from anyone else's. You may stir alot and get an ice cold drink, or
shake gently and get a mild chill.
None of this, though, is really bruising the gin or vermouth as all the
flavors return with increase in temperature. This is essentially the same
thinknig behind the serving temps of Cognac, wine, champagne, etc.
So from a bartending/mixology standpoint, you may think, "oh whatever, I'll
shake." However from a culinary, flavor, and science aspect (which is where
Brown is coming from) the argument is perfectly sound.
Additionally in the tin vs. glass department, there's some science there too.
Metals, such as aluminum and stainless steel are reactive materials. They heat
up fast, they cool fast, and are very subject to chemicals. Because of this
food stored for a long time in aluminum or steel can take on a "metal taste".
Glass, crystal, and all the glass-like substances used in bar/bakeware are
fairly non-reactive, and while not always the best insulators, they conduct
heat much less than metal. Glass is more of a container that is just "there"
and has little to no effect on what's contained inside.
Rubbish you say? There are so many checmicals in cooked foods, and equally as
many , if not more in all that goes into flavoring gin, whiskey, cognac,
vermouth, and all other spirits that have flavor nuances. Many of these
chemicals still haven't even been identifyed or named--that's how many there
are. Somethings bound to react and have an effect on the flavor. Whether or
not one can notice it is all a matter of personal taste.
"But it's only in the tin for 10 seconds at best." I know its a short time,
but to some purists with pronounced taste buds any metal taste is too much
metal taste.
Cheers from your friendly neighborhod devil's advocate!
-NBX
--
“I had never tasted anything so cool and clean. They made me feel civilized.”
-Ernest Hemingway, of a Martini